Dec 26, 2016 – Nusa Penida: Goa Putri Cave Temple, Atuh Beach, and Suwehan Beach


The View from the top of the Cliff near Atuh Beach

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I took a small boat from the broken bridge on Nusa Lembongan to Nusa Penida. It included the captain and 4 other women, a scoter and several baskets of goods. The ride took about 20 minutes. Once we landed on Nusa Penida, I got a scooter ride to my hostel, Nusa Garden… it’s not too bad for $7/night…. however, I was appalled to see that they had a pet monkey. Upon my arrival, I rented a scooter and started sightseeing.

Nusa Penida was the Indonesia I was in search of. No hawkers asking you to buy stuff or offering rides. The people are friendly and mostly farm of bananas, rice, corn, and seaweed. The narrow roads are never very busy and you often find yourself alone on them. A few times while scooting around I had to watch out for monkeys, fallen mangoes, or people carrying large baskets on their heads. The main road is curvy and newly paved, which is lovely! It feels like you’re James Bond on a scooter with all the spectacular views. Nusa Penida seem like a perfect location for filming movies.

I stopped off at the Goa Putri Cave Temple in Karangsari, Suana village about 10 kilometers from the main harbour heading to the east. According to a brochure I read, “Giri” means Hill while the word “Putri” means princess. The combination of those words refers to the cave as a holy sit of Siva.

I rented a sarong just outside the entrance for 5000 RPH or 50 cents Canadian and then hiked up over a hundred stairs to reach the mouth of the cave. At the entrance to the underground temple were two men doing karaoke! I definitely was not expecting that. After I was blessed with holy water and some flowers, I entered the cave.

The Goa Putri Cave Temple is particularly unique because the entrance is 60 cm around and is 2 meters long, meaning that you have to carefully fit your body into the opening. Inside the cave are there are bats, stalagmites, stalactites, etc. There were lights set up inside so it wasn’t too dark. I ventured onward and climbed some steps to an interior chamber of the temple where I could hear a woman panting. I carefully peaked inside and saw about 10 people dressed in white and a woman who looked like she was about to give birth. I felt uncomfortable watching and didn’t stay long even though they said it was okay. I continued towards the exit of the underground temple and witnessed a quick prayer session which was cool!

.Next stop was Atuh Beach, located in Banjar Pelilit, Pejukutan Village between two high cliffs. The road out takes you along one of the cliffs so you can witness a specular view of the beach below and the surrounding area. I had a snack at the top before descending hundreds of steps to reach the beach. There was just myself and a few people lounging there. I went swimming for a bit, but the waves were awfully strong. It felt like a little slice of paradise.

Lastly, I scootered to Suwehan Beach. It is quite a steep hike down the mountain to find it. When I got to the bottom, I realized the tide was very high and strong so I didn’t go swimming or hang out on the beach. I just kept to the rocks. I think it would have been better if I had visited at low tide earlier in the day. I only met one other person while hiking down to Suwehan Beach, otherwise it was deserted.

I had dinner at Warung Makan Boga Segara overlooking the water and had a whole bamboo hut to myself. I had cap cay for dinner and assorted fruits for dessert. The chef put a bit of shredded cheese on top of the fruit which I have never had before! It was tasty.


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